I haven't been tagged -- and I'm not complaining about that -- but I thought I'd share a not-so secret thing about me. I love soup.
I love soup so much that I have considered starting a take-out soup business. But I also know from experience that I am not as entrepreneurial as a business needs its founder to be, so instead I play with the idea of the thing, and have a good old vicarious time of it.
I credit Sally Nirenberg with launching this wholesome preoccupation. In 1990, Ms Nirenberg published
Recipes from the Night Kitchen: A Practical Guide to Spectacular Soups, Stews, and Chilies which just may be
the best book of recipes of any kind ever. (The Night Kitchen was the name of the wholesale soup business that she founded and ran in Massachusetts.) She makes having a soup business sound achievable and idyllic; and her recipes for the home cook are, in fact, Practical and Spectacular -- this is not hyperbolic press puffery. I've never met her, but I am profoundly grateful to her. I've never had a bad meal from her book, or a sour moment while pretending that maybe I could have a business like that too. Ongoing food for the body and the imagination is a good return from a $10 investment amortized over 18 years. The book is still available -- new and used -- so go get one.
Meanwhile as winter taps ever more vigorously at the panes, I thought that, from time to time, I might share some of the treasures from my travels in the realms of broths and report on the many goodly stocks and consommes seen. (apologies to Keats) To wit, my variation on Ms Nirenberg's Carrot-Fennel soup (she calls for fennel seeds; I thought "why not an actual fennel?").
1 tablespoon olive or canola oil
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
1.5 to 2 lbs carrots, peeled and sliced
8 cups chicken or vegetable stock
(I use half stock, half water; all stock is too chickeny for me)
1 small fennel bulb. with or without the feathery bits, coarsely chopped
(
or 1 teaspoon dried fennel seed, for all you originalists)
I don't use the oil. I just toss everything into a crock pot and let it cook on low for 6 (or so) hours, then run it through the food processor. I used to use a blender but the processor doesn't completely liquefy everything the way the blender does, so the soup has a nice, very slightly rough texture.
If you don't have a crock pot -- YOU DON'T HAVE A CROCK POT?
HOW CAN YOU
LIVE? -- then put the oil in a 3-quart pot and heat it gently. Add the onions and carrots (and chopped fennel, if using it) and cook, covered, over low heat until the vegetables are tender.
Add the stock and the fennel seeds (if using those -- one
or the other, vegetable
or seeds,
not both) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes. Then run it all through a food processor or blender.
This yields about 2.5 to 3 quarts. It's also good cold in the summer. Which is one of the few good things about summer. In addition to my birthday, which is the only official holiday in August.